Acapulco, Take Me Away

Acapulco Sunset East.

Originally uploaded by Mac1968

El Blog de Joy is hitting the road and heading west to the Pacific Ocean for the holiday weekend. We’re thoroughly exhausted by the chilly temps in Mexico City — a girl can only shiver so much before she says “no mas.”

Anyway, hasta pronto.

Beautiful Autumn Sky in Mexico City

The rainy season has been over for about a month or so. Remember these stormy photos?

Fall in Mexico City signals a return to dry air, when ocean moisture no longer carries the same oomph. Most days from now until next May are completely sunny, crisp and cool. Around this time of year, the leaves fall from some of the trees (while the palm trees and jacarandas keep things tropical year-round). It’s not unusual for many weeks to pass without seeings clouds or rain.

Today, however, we woke up to a beautiful cloud-filled sky.

Have Love, Will Travel

All day, I listen online to WFUV.org while I work.

The people at FUV love music, and it shows. At least once a day I hear a new song I adore.

Today’s song seems especially apt for a gal like me:

This is a cover of an old song by Richard Berry, and it’s fabulous. Turn it up, folks. If I had a garage, and an infinite amount of money, I’d hire The Black Keys to play. We’d have a keg, some couches, and a great night in el garaje.

The Black Keys in general, rock my socks and they are an anazing cover band…(and if you’re about to tell me something like “whatever, Joy, they’ve been around forever,” and “what hole have you been hiding in?” My answer: I’ve been living in Mexico, fool. The internets are truly god’s gift to the world, but they don’t overcome all distance barriers).

Another excellent cover:

As soon as I hit publish on this blog post, I’m headed to iTunes to buy one of their album, which I will then load onto my iPod and take with me on my walk tonight to Bistro Arlequin to meet with my writing group, during which I will torture Chilangos peatones with refrains of “Have Love, Will Travel….”

Video: From the Bus in Mexico City

My friend Connie, who recently visited me in Mexico, shared this video she created of some of the video and still images she shot while here. The video combines footage she took from a bus trip from Mexico City to Taxco, and photos from both cities. The song, “Denia” by Manu Chao (an artist I love), is in Arabic. She says “OK, not in Spanish but I thought it fit the imagery well.”

Indeed:

done

Celebrating Two Years in Mexico with a Giant Photo Fest

This time, instead of the regular Joy interviewing Joy on her time spent in Mexico, El Blog de Joy will celebrate dos anos en Mexico with a photo essay taken by visitors to la casa de Joy y Brendan.

We love visitors — and nothing is more fun than seeing their trip photos!

First, my Minnesota in-laws, Bob and Martie, who were our first visitors way back in March of ‘08:

Martie and Bob, from the Condesa DF Hotel rooftop bar here in my neighborhood.

My favorite photo from their trip. We spotted her at the Carnaval Parade in Xochimilco.

 

Then my parents and best friend Dora came, and while not touring Mexico City,  we were hanging out — literally — over the Pacific Ocean in Acapulco:

The sunset was just a teeny weensy dramatic from the Los Flamingos hotel clifftop view.

My parents are museum buffs, so the fantastic Mexico City anthropology museum made their day.

My favorite thing about Acapulco was how it felt like you were floating above the ocean. (Fave photo by my Mom.)

Next to visit was my in-laws again, who brought along D.C. friends Laurie and Mark:

Laurie and Mark, on my right. We thoroughly enjoyed the food at Las Placeras in Malinalco, where we rented a house, played dominoes, drank tequila, swung from the hammock and in general had a fabulous time.

I love this photo by my father-in-law, Bob, because it shows Martie eating ice cream while drooling over the incredible fresh fruit.

Next was a quick one-night visit from Madeleine and Jason, who road tripped across Mexico.

New Yorkers, I've come to realize, don't bat an eye in Mexico City. They fit right in and enjoy the craziness just like the Chilangos. We took them out for some mezcal.

Then a few weeks ago Queens guru Connie, and her man, Hugh, visited us for a week. What a blast!

I took Connie to El Morral in Coyoacan to try my favorite food of all time, chiles en nogada. And she took a picture of me, reveling in my gluttony.

Connie, me and Brendan at our favorite restaurant in the city, La Embajada Jarocha. They serve Veracruz seafood, topped with live dancing/music. (A tropical haven in the crazy city.)

Connie and Hugh are both avid photoghapers, and who can resist taking photos of children this adorable? (Photo by Connie.)

Connie snapped this fantastic photo of Hugh while waiting for the subway to arrive. He's offering some slices of mandarin orange.

And, just a few days after Connie and Hugh se fueron, another darling New Yorker, Chrissy, arrived:

Yep, Charlie made a new amiga! We went back to the house in Malinalco.

Chrissy’s photo were pretty amazing, and I haven’t yet blogged about them before, so let’s take a look!

What we often eat for breakfast, lunch and/or dinner -- tacos!

What I WISH I could have for breakfast every day -- a bunch of Mexican pastries right out of the oven!

A beautiful smiling vendor at the Mercado La Cuidadela

A quiet street in Malinalco, Mexico.

The weeks following the rainy season are the most beautiful in Mexico. This is on a tiny highway en el estado de Mexico.

My new favorite photo of me!

These crosses are placed on the front entrances to all the homes in Malinalco during their annual festival in September. The flower-cross dries beautifully, no?

Then, just last week, came my Uncle Steven and Aunt Martha from Houston:

Steven and Martha. We went to Malinalco (again!), and ate (again!) at beautiful Las Placeras.

I have an upcoming post dedicated just to Martha's great photos, but this gives you an idea. At the mercado de Xochimilco.

Day of the Dead: It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year

Expect  a lot more photos from me in the following weeks, as this is my third time to celebrate Noche de Muertos (or, alternately known as Dia de Muertos, De de Los Muertos, Day of the Dead) and I LOVE IT.

Today I went to the Mercado Jamaica — Mexico City’s gargantuan flower market — to pick up some zempasúchitl (marigolds) and the brain coral-like flores de terciopelo (cockscombs?)  Total cost: 30 pesos, or about $2.20. Check out this great photo slideshow to get an idea of show sprawling this mercado is.

When I got home, I made 5 bouquets from the two big bundles of flowers, including the centerpiece to my ofrenda, or altar:

You know you live in Mexico when you have spare calaveritas (mini sugar skulls) in the pantry, and whip them out for the altar.

Each marigold bloom is huge. I bought the type with more shredded like petals, but they have many varieties for sale. This weekend the flowers will bedeck altars, the cemeteries, and the entrances to peoples' homes, a way to welcome and guide back their dead loved ones.

I had two quesadillas at the mercado after buying my flowers. One had huitlacoche (corn fungus -- it's delicious!) and the other, continuing with the flower theme, was stuffed with squash blossoms.

These exquisite flores de terciopelo look great juxtaposed next to orange. Fuchsia and orange: so Mexican.

Of course, Halloween is popular here, too. Costumes and themed pinatas were for sale, like this witch, who waited on a bench while her owner had lunch.

It’s a Rough Life, Visiting Gorgeous Spas in Mexico

Once, while on vacation a few years ago, Brendan looked over at me swinging in a hammock and sipping a beer, and said “you’re so hedonistic when you’re on vacation.”

At the time, I really wasn’t participating in anything all that indulgent, but he was right: I’ll go the extra mile if it involves pleasure and beauty.

Hence, I like getting massages in pretty places. And Mexico is basically perfect for that, no?

The massage last year in Puerto Vallarta during a steamy rainstorm wasn’t so bad, and I enjoyed the Thai Massage at Mision del Sol in Cuernavaca, and I’ll never forget the avocado hair treatment/neck massage at Cabanas Copal…but none of those (nor the others) so far, have topped Ollinyotl Spa in Malinalco, Mexico.

Let’s let the photos speak for themselves:

Circles are the main architecture element at the spa. (You can click all of these for larger versions.)

The entrance to the labyrinth.

Chrissy, who visited us this past week from New York City, went with me to Ollinyotl. We got one-hour Swedish massages for 500 pesos each ($38). Then we sat under the hot Mexican sun in the labyrinth, soaking up the amazing good vibes that emanate from the place. This is definitely a photo to click on to view the large version!

New age-y drum music is piped in, and when you lie on the ground in the labryinth, the sky takes on a fish-bowl perspective. It's transcendent, as silly as it sounds.

They have yoga classes here - right here in the middle - and I hope to take one when we return to Malinalco for Day of the Dead. In the center, it echoes. How great is that for chatting om namah shivaya?

Yours truly in heaven.

Get here before its discovered. We were the only patrons at the spa on a Saturday afternoon. Otherwise, no, I don't normally take so many photos.

Sharing Mexico with Friends

It is SO fun having visitors, and showing them the sights. October is a busy month for us, right now our New York City amiga Chrissy is here. In a few moments, we’re taking a mini road trip to Malinalco.

Chrissy and me in the plaza of Coyoacan last night. It’s been beautifully restored.

Like Thunderstorms? Then You’ll Love Mexico City

This is when I first started to think "Hmm, maybe I'll get my camera."

And it grew.

And grew.

Then it started to get surreal, and I found myself staring at it, mesmerized.

So many shades of gray.

And blue.

It took over the entire sky.

This was at about 7 p.m., right before sunset.

A helicopter amid the storm (it's the tiny dot to the right of the tree and left of the building). What a view this pilot must have.

Tales from an International Jetsetter

Minutes before my afternoon flight from Houston to Mexico City on Sunday, I decided to buy a Jamba Juice smoothie, since I hadn’t eaten the entire day and am always leery of Continental’s “snack” offerings.

As I approach my seat — 17C — I realize I didn’t think this through very well. I’ve got two giant carry-ons full of books (I always bring back books to Mexico, and never check them to avoid overweight fees) and a paper cup full of smoothie. I have to set it down somewhere to get the carry-ons in the overhead compartments. Damn.

Without a lot of thought (“story of my life”), I set it down on the seat cushion of 16C, and prop it against the armrest, so it won’t tip over. Instead, it tips over. And spills all over 16C. The frozen purple blob oozes and starts dripping down to the floor.

I muttered — no, gasped — a few adult words and pressed the flight attendant call button as quickly as I could.

Thankfully, the attendant appeared quickly, made no attempt to humiliate me, and went off to find napkins.

“But we’re going to get a new seat,” she tells me as she walks off, as if I understand what that entails.

Moments later, the ticketholder for 16C arrives. My humiliation came in the form of jumping up and warning him “don’t sit there!!!!” I explained, sheepishly, that I spilled my smoothie. For some reason, had it been a Coke or a plate of nachos, I’d been less embarrassed. A smoothie? Even the word annoys me.

“Uh, OK….Someone left their passport, too,” he says.

And, of course, it’s mine, I dropped it in the confusion. “Oh, mine! I’m not having the best day!” I try to joke.

He doesn’t laugh. I know at this point he had to be thinking “oh no, next she’s going to start crying about her cat.”

The flight attendant re-appears with a fistful of napkins, and asks Mr. 16C to wait at the back of the plane while they wait for maintenance. I apologize profusely and explain I’ll take his seat if they’re not able to fix it. It’s my mistake, but he has to stand in the back, among the lavatories, while I’m buckled in and pulling out my iPod.

Thankfully, a large man in a Continental uniform eventually appears, hugging a seat cushion. The removal and installation takes only a few seconds. He’s gone, and Mr. 16C is allowed to come back and join his family members. I finally start to relax a little, but I spent a lot of time looking around to see if anyone was shaking their head in disapproval as I sucked down what was left of my smoothie. Of course, most people were completely unaware of what had happened, and the only thing they knew from the incident happened later when the pilot announced:

“Sorry, folks, we’re a little delayed, we’re just wrapping up a last-minute maintenance report.”

Sigh.

For the first time ever, the constant crying of an ear-infected toddler in the row across from us was actually soothing for me. Surely Mr. 16C found that more annoying than my smoothie incident?!

After a Busy Week, to Texas I Go

I’m spending this week in steamy, hot Corpus Christi, Texas, chillaxin’ with my folks and attending a wedding. This comes on the heels of a week-long visit from NYC BFF Concetta and her man H, both of whom showed tireless energy to see as much of Mexico City as possible. In a week’s time, they:

-ate tacos al pastor (moments after arriving from the airport!)

-toured San Angel’s Bazar Sabado conmigo, then later were happy to tag along to have Korean food and chelas with 10+ foreigners (and me), despite being on a Mexican vacation

-walked all over La Roma, then walked west on Reforma to the Anthropology Museum and then boarded the metro to the centro and ate cabrito — in one afternoon!

-as every good tourist should, visited the Zocalo, and later had Yucatecan tacos (so fracking good, people), panuchos and beers with me and B

-climbed the pyramids at Teotihuacan, then had more tacos

-took an overnight trip to the breathtaking mountain town of Taxco, stayed at romantic/quaint Mi Casita

-had a humongous Argentinian meal with us, including steaks, fries and two bottles of Casa Madero cab sav

-One day I got to hoard Concetta all to myself, and we spent the day in Coyoacan, visiting Frida Kahlo’s blue house, before some fierce shopping and eating chiles en nogada at El Morral. (THEY HAVE REALLY GOOD CHILES EN NOGADA, YA’LL!) We also squeezed in cafes from El Jarocho, and gabbed while sitting/people-watching on a bench in the plaza.

-We spent one evening at my favorite restaurant in Mexico City, La Embajada Jarocha (comida veracruzana), where we ate coconuts and plantains stuffed with seafood, and Connie and her man joined in w/ the crowd, and danced to tropical music provided by a string of rotating bands.

Now I’m in slow-paced Corpus Christi, enjoying American amenities like safe drinking water, Target and salad bars.

Life is good, people. I’m a lucky lady to have good friends, good times and a great life.

-

The Little Miracle on My Patio

On our Mexico City apartment patio, we have several geraniums, two weird succulent plants, and a very productive chili pepper plant.

Those are the survivors, anyway. We’ve managed to kill a few plants, too.

Amazingly, a week or so ago, I noticed a little green sprout in one of the cast-off pots that I had shoved into the corner and forgotten about. I had no idea what the little sprout was (it’s growing in a pot that used to contain basil), but surmised it was a weed that had shown up because the rainy season meant it was getting watered frequently.

But now, it doesn’t look so weed-like:

Anyone know what flower this is?

Adios, Rainy Season

I Finally Obtain Cheddar Cheese in Mexico City; Charlie Spazzes

A few weeks ago, I went to Costco with friend and fellow blogger Julie. I had heard the rumors that Costco sells certain food items largely unattainable in Mexico City, chief among them extra-sharp cheddar cheese. I have made it no secret that I get a little woozy in the presence of good cheddar, and since I am uber tired of Mexican cheeses (they are fairly bland), I could resist no longer. I bought a giant block of Vermont’s finest, AKA Cabot’s Vintage Choice white cheddar.

["Vintage Choice rests in our cellars until it reaches perfect maturity. It boasts a rich, full-bodied, extra-sharp flavor that is wonderfully delicious. Complex in taste and texture, opulent and full of nuances. Its powerful intensity lingers like a sweet memory." Editor's Note: Indeed.]

Everyday since then, I’ve sliced a little bit off and savored it. When done, I carefully place Saran wrap around the block and place it lovingly back in the fridge. “Tomorrow, we meet again,” I whisper to it. “Tenemos una cita, amorcito.“

Tonight, I decided to splurge and have a white wine (a Portugese vinho verde — another thing Julie introduced me, to, and tengo un mil gracias por eso)  and cheddar cheese dinner.

Normally, when Charlie is in the presence of anything that tastes even a smidge better than his normal kibble, he begins an elaborate begging dance to get a scrap. But if his humans ignore him, he will give up, eventually.

But not tonight. I had thoughtlessly left behind a tiny piece of cheddar and was settling into read a friend’s short story for my writing workshop. He kept bumping into me as I tried to read. WTF? Oh, the cheese, I realized.

He spent a very long time calculating the distance between the sofa and the tiny bit of cheese.

"I eat crappy kibble all day. Please, woman."

"SIGH. Just give me the fucking cheese already."

Finally, I relented and handed it to him.

He gobbled it up and then jumped off the couch and preceded to circle the coffee table.

"Just making sure it's all gone."

Later, I spotted him by the doorway, licking and sniffing his paws (he often holds treats with his paws before eating them).

Right now I think he’s retired to the bedroom, and will soon fall asleep, dreaming of cheddar.

My Patriotic Fruit Salad (Viva Mexico!)

Manana es Dia de Independencia, y esta noche vamos a celebrar con el grito “Viva Mexico! Viva!”

The national dish for Mexico this time of year is the exceptionally beautiful chiles en nogada, which happens to be red, white and green, como la bandera de Mexico.

But so is this, and whereas chiles en nogada has upwards of 19 ingredients (!!), this has just two: