I Finally Obtain Cheddar Cheese in Mexico City; Charlie Spazzes

A few weeks ago, I went to Costco with friend and fellow blogger Julie. I had heard the rumors that Costco sells certain food items largely unattainable in Mexico City, chief among them extra-sharp cheddar cheese. I have made it no secret that I get a little woozy in the presence of good cheddar, and since I am uber tired of Mexican cheeses (they are fairly bland), I could resist no longer. I bought a giant block of Vermont’s finest, AKA Cabot’s Vintage Choice white cheddar.

["Vintage Choice rests in our cellars until it reaches perfect maturity. It boasts a rich, full-bodied, extra-sharp flavor that is wonderfully delicious. Complex in taste and texture, opulent and full of nuances. Its powerful intensity lingers like a sweet memory." Editor's Note: Indeed.]

Everyday since then, I’ve sliced a little bit off and savored it. When done, I carefully place Saran wrap around the block and place it lovingly back in the fridge. “Tomorrow, we meet again,” I whisper to it. “Tenemos una cita, amorcito.“

Tonight, I decided to splurge and have a white wine (a Portugese vinho verde — another thing Julie introduced me, to, and tengo un mil gracias por eso)  and cheddar cheese dinner.

Normally, when Charlie is in the presence of anything that tastes even a smidge better than his normal kibble, he begins an elaborate begging dance to get a scrap. But if his humans ignore him, he will give up, eventually.

But not tonight. I had thoughtlessly left behind a tiny piece of cheddar and was settling into read a friend’s short story for my writing workshop. He kept bumping into me as I tried to read. WTF? Oh, the cheese, I realized.

He spent a very long time calculating the distance between the sofa and the tiny bit of cheese.

"I eat crappy kibble all day. Please, woman."

"SIGH. Just give me the fucking cheese already."

Finally, I relented and handed it to him.

He gobbled it up and then jumped off the couch and preceded to circle the coffee table.

"Just making sure it's all gone."

Later, I spotted him by the doorway, licking and sniffing his paws (he often holds treats with his paws before eating them).

Right now I think he’s retired to the bedroom, and will soon fall asleep, dreaming of cheddar.

My Patriotic Fruit Salad (Viva Mexico!)

Manana es Dia de Independencia, y esta noche vamos a celebrar con el grito “Viva Mexico! Viva!”

The national dish for Mexico this time of year is the exceptionally beautiful chiles en nogada, which happens to be red, white and green, como la bandera de Mexico.

But so is this, and whereas chiles en nogada has upwards of 19 ingredients (!!), this has just two:

The Ironic Corn Stalk in Parque Mexico

I am fortunate enough to live adjacent to Parque Mexico, one of the prettiest parks in Mexico City. I’ve sung its praises many times here, from the big fat banana flowers to the shabby beauty of the fountains to the cute signs posted on tree trunks.

The park is maintained by a giant fleet of workers who sweep the sidewalks and keep the plants/trees healthy. On the weekends, it’s insanely crowded with families and dog owners.

A few months ago, though, I spotted a strange sight: A gangly little stalk of corn. I thought that it was funny — was it a silly joke, to see if it would survive? Or something more meaningful, a historical statement on what was likely growing in the park’s area 300 years ago? Or a political statement that anyone who can live near the park can afford corn during a time of severe (and panic-inducing) drought when so many can’t?

I thought someone would uproot the corn stalk by now, or that it would wither away. But no, it’s gotten huge — all by its lonesome — and is now sprouting a little ear of corn.

I’d love to know who planted it, and why:

Delish & Low-Cal: Joy’s Vegetarian Tortilla Soup

As fall arrives, it’s cold and rainy here in Mexico City (seriously, it’s 55 degrees and raining heavily right at this moment). Meaning, I want soup. Steamy, spicy soup.

But because I try to cook vegetarian at home, my options are limited. Mexico is a meat-lover’s paradise (and trust me, I’m not judging: I’ve partaken of the cooked animal flesh many ‘o times here). But one fail-safe at home dish is tortilla soup, using Mexican ingredients.

Truth be told: I’ve been making this recipe for years now, borrowing heavily from this Epicurious recipe that was printed in Bon Appetit in 1997 – wow! The way I prepare it is really a hybrid between tortilla soup and sopa de lima. And it’s my favorite of any I’ve tried…

Ingredients:

• glug of olive oil
• 1/2 cup chopped white onion
• 2 garlic cloves, minced (or more)
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste (I use ketchup)
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin (I use a lot more plus at least 2 tsp of chili powder)
• 4 cups canned vegetable broth, adding more water if needed
• 4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (again, I use liberally)

• bag of good tortilla chips (totopos en espanol), crush some to sprinkle on top of finished soup
• 2 cups chopped tomatoes (I use canned whole tomatoes, a pantry item that’s always usable)
• 1 can black beans, rinsed, drained
• at least 1 cup chopped zucchini — or more depending on how much you like this veggie. I chop it into fourths.
• At least one jalapeno pepper (with seeds — we like spice, take ‘em out if you don’t) or any other spicy chile
• Can throw in a cup or so of frozen or fresh corn kernels
• Can throw in a 1/2 cup or so of fresh chopped carrots
• Limes — lots of em. I like the small sweet kind
• Shredded cheddar cheese to sprinkle on top (if you’re a bad girl)
• salt and pepper, claro

Pour glug of olive oil onto large nonstick saucepan. Add onion, cover and cook over medium-low heat until almost tender, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, stir 1 minute. Stir in tomato paste or ketchup, cumin and chili powder. Add broth and 2 tablespoons cilantro; bring to boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until flavors blend, about 15 minutes. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover; chill. Bring to simmer before continuing.) Can add water if this is too thick for your taste.

Add tomatoes, beans, zucchini, extra veggies (if desired) and chile pepper to soup. Cover; simmer until zucchini is tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. If broth is too laden with veggies, add little bits of water until you reach desired soup consistency. Add more spices if you wish to avoid diluted taste.

Squeeze in juice of 1 lime. Add desired amount of salt and pepper.

Ladle soup into bowls. Sprinkle with remaining extra cilantro. Squeeze a bit more lime (depending on your lime preference — I like a lot). And you may want to shred a little Manchego cheese on top.

Tastes great as leftovers, btw. (I don’t know the exact nutrition breakdown, pero,  black beans have fiber, limes have vitamin c, carrots have vitamin A and fiber, tomatoes have vitamin C and lycopene, garlic is always good for you….and this has just a teensy bit of olive oil. So, it’s low-fat, low-cal, vegetarian and nutrient-dense. AND TASTY.)

Photos: We Visit Latin America’s Largest University, UNAM

The soccer stadium (go Pumas!) is also the '68 Olympic stadium.

Jesica, one of my good friends here in Mexico City, happens to be a tour guide with a degree in art history. Meaning, when you hang out with her, you not only have fun, you get smarter. A few days ago, I  mentioned that we hadn’t yet visited UNAM, Mexico City’s enormous university (the biggest in Latin America, and perhaps the world). The campus is in the south of the city, and itself is the size of a small city. So, she said, vaminos. And we did so today, turning it into a little mini-road trip in her convertible Tracker.

We attended the Orquestra Sinfonica de Mineria (the symphony — and I loved it. Does this mean I’m getting old?) at Sala Nezahualcóyotl, had lunch at the famed Azul y Oro (named after the colors of UNAM, blue and gold), then walked around a sculpture garden that contained — to my glee — lots of nature, and well, sculptures by Sebastian.

Jesica and Brendan hike down to the big blue M.

I was actually entertained during the entire symphony. It's really quite amazing.

It was one of those typically perfect days. 365 days a year, it rocks.

A bee doing what she does best.

"I'm a fat lizard sunbathing."

A poblano pepper stuffed with spicy pork and fruit, covered in a walnut cream sauce, and doused with pomegranate seeds. It's a rough life.

A Mondrian-style home sits behind a pesero.

Photo Tour: Beautiful Malinalco, Mexico

We spent the long weekend (it was a holiday here on Monday) in Malinalco, Mexico. We rented a house for two nights, and when not reading on the patio, we spent time exploring the local pyramid — picturesquely situated on a hill above town — and buying fresh produce at the market. We also explored an avenue south of town flanked with dozens of trout restaurants — they keep the fish in cages in the stream that runs by the street, and cook them up fresh for you.

A couple enjoys the view from one of the ancient pyramids perched above town.

A tree with pink blossoms stands over the town.

I take in the view (I have to force Brendan to take photos of me, otherwise I am absent from all trip photos.)

Brendan on the many-stepped climb uphill to the pyramids.

The house we rented for the weekend. The dog was in love with it, of course.

Charlie enjoying the warm tile.

The garden is less than two years old. The owner told me there's a saying in lush Malinalco: If it doesn't grow, it's because you didn't plant it.

Our purchases from the town market. You don't want to know how cheap and delicious this produce is.

I am really tempted to try this -- the view must be incredible.

To see more photos from our trip to Malinalco, go to Malinco, Mexico Flickr album.

If you’re interested in renting a house in Malinalco, here’s one.

Found: A Foot Massager Slash Taxi Driver

This fresa gigante is so happy because he's dipped in chocolate.

Last Friday I went to The Chocolate Experience trade show with my friend Lesley, who just moved here on Wednesday.

The “experience” was great — lots of chocolate and posing with giant strawberries dipped in chocolate.

After the event, I walked Lesley to the taxi stand outside of the massive World Trade Center, and dropped her off so she could take a taxi straight home to her corporate housing in Polanco. I took the Metrobus home to Condesa.

For some reason, though, I felt nervous about the taxi. Perhaps because it was Lesley’s third day in Mexico, or perhaps because the taxi that pulled up for her didn’t look as official as I thought it should. So once I got home, I emailed her — everything OK?

Yes, she said. But the taxi ride was “interesting.”

Indeed: Somehow, on only her third day in Mexico, Lesley managed to get a foot massage from her cab driver.

The Wall Street Journal Asks: Is Mexico City Awesome or What?

Yeah, it’s true: We eat very well.

Is Mexico City the World’s Greatest Food City?

(Now, I’m off to eat pig legs at Los Chomorros….)

A Mexico Must-Do: Take a Cooking Class in Oaxaca

I stuff Oaxacan cheese into a flor de calabaza. (Note the apron: It's the only time you'll ever see me wear one!)

While we vacationed in the Mexican state of Oaxaca a few weeks ago, we signed up for a cooking class at Casa Crespo Bed and Breakfast in Oaxaca City –  it was a handy hop, skip and jump from our accommodations at The Hotel Aitana. While I don’t typically associate “cooking” with “vacation” (it just doesn’t sound as good as “vacation” and “swimming in the Pacific”), I can now admit: it was a blast.

In less than 5 hours, we somehow managed to shop at the mercado and prepare no less than 10 dishes: corn tortillas, red salsa, passionfruit salsa, passionfruit juice, quesadillas with pumpkin flowers, black bean soup, stuffed-and-fried pumpkin flowers, sliced Poblano peppers with cheese and creme freche, “fiesta” mole with chicken and…lastly but certainly not leastly, Oaxacan chocolate ice cream.

Hungry yet?

Puebla, Mexico: Home of Talavera Pottery

Puebla, Mexico, is famed for its Talavera pottery. So, before we visited Puebla this past weekend, I had envisioned it as being a city completely covered in Talavera. Like, even the toilets would be Talavera — hey, I’ve seen it before, some of you may remember.

But, no, it wasn’t so. It wasn’t Talavera todo el tiempo. Although don’t get me wrong: Downtown Puebla is beautiful, and has more-than-your-average amount of Talavera. The artists’ market also is heavily focused on ceramics, some of them incredibly gorgeous and expensive, especially the stuff that’s been certified as true “Talavera.”

And, as always in Mexico, the food was increible, from my four-mole meal at Meson Sacristia to the cheap, delicious tacos al pastor at midnight sold in taquerias on the zocalo (that’s unusual — most colonial-town zocalos have been overtaken by overpriced, not-so-great touristy joints). I guess Puebla combines the beauty of an old colonial city with the urban-ness of Mexico City…or something like that, oh, and with a touch of “shabby chic” thrown in (outer areas of the central parts of town were a bit down-on-its-heels).

One important thing to know about Puebla if you visit: Damn, the temperature fluctuates. It feels about 85 during the day, and about 40 at night. So, prepare to wear a t-shirt in the afternoon, and a winter coat and hat at night.

PHOTOS from my trip…

A typical street scene in Puebla, Mexico. We took the tour bus across town, and a random rain shower made us feel a bit stupid for being seated on the open-air top level of the bus. But wow, being perched up high helps with photo taking. More photos….

Do You Like My Sugar Skulls?

Sugar skulls for sale in Toluca, Mexico.

For the second year in a row, I visited the fantabulous Alfenique (sugar skull market) in Toluca, Mexico. This weekend I had the pleasure of going with a great group of friends — all of whom we’ve met only in the past year! Because of my extensive *cough* experience with Alfenique (I went for four hours last year), I played Tour Guide to Toluca. It’s a job I could get into, especially this time of year.

Enough about us, though, the market is the true star. Candy vendors from all over Central Mexico set up booths for Dia de los Muertos goodies, from ornate sugar skulls to chocolate lollipops. You can get high blood sugar just by walking the aisles of the mercado. I, of course, heard the call of the sweet tooth and started snacking while shopping.  It was all over when my friend Dyana convinced me to try a coffee-cup-sized marshmallow dipped in milk chocolate and nuts: Death never seemed so tasty.

Ah, Mexico. Never fails to make for a good set of photographs. Let’s take a look!

Boozy Times: Drinking Pulque with Tepoztecatl

A mural showing how pulque is made, at a museum in Tlaxcala.

Mexico has at least four major alcoholic beverages to its credit:

• Tequila
• Mezcal
• Sotol
• Pulque

Like tequila and mezcal, pulque (pool-kay) is made from the fermented juice of the maguey, a type of agave (which is NOT a cactus but a big aloe vera-like plant — and a classic symbol of Mexico. We even own one.) These plants grow into giant monsters, by the way. Sotol is made from a yucca-like desert plant.

Until last weekend, I had not tried pulque. It made me a little nervous. Why? Brendan tried it not long after we moved here, and declared the texture “similar to snot” (think: aloe vera gel). And most traditional pulquerías are kind of dirty and gross — the pulque is ladeled out of big plastic buckets and the conditions are not exactly what you might call sanitary.

Yeah, not selling points for Joy. But to not try pulque is pretty lame for someone who lives in Mexico. So I had slowly been working up my nerve.

ORIGINS

For a long time, this was a drink of the poor. Originally, before the Spanish conquistadors arrived, it was a fancy traditional drink for the Aztecs and other Mexican cultures. Tepoztecatl, in fact, was the god of pulque, drunkenness, and fittingly, fertility. Then, once the indigenous people were treated to hundreds of years of brutality by the Spanish, their favored drink started to disappear and thrived only in a few, shabby pulquerias.

In recent years, pulque has made somewhat of a comeback, as college students here in Mexico make it fashionable to drink pulque. As a result, there are now sanitized pulquerias perfect for leery patrons like me. Pulqueria La Tia Yola in Tlaxcala was upscale, clean, cheery. I ordered a flavored pulque made with pine nuts. Brendan got the pistachio.

I'm drinking my pulque from the traditional green-glass vessel.

How was it?

Fortunately — very fortunately — it was not snot-like. More like sipping a watery yogurt (Brendan, who now considers himself a pulque expert after having tried it exactly one more time than me, branded Tia Yola’s pulque “weak.”) It tasted healthy, which is a strange feeling when you’re in a bar.

BOTTOM LINE

Overall, I’m not exactly eager to try it again, but am glad I worked up the nerve to tie one on with Tepoztecatl.

A saying about pulque -- basically, that pulque drinkers first turn a little red like a turkey, then you're all chatting and animated, like a monkey, then you're an over-aggresive lion..and lastly, a pig.

10 Great Reasons to Visit Mexico City

The cathedral in Mexico City and an art exhibit with a long line, in front. Photo by Mr. Bob.

Mexico City often takes a verbal beating from Americans as a place no one would ever want to spend on a vacation. From what I’ve heard and read, yes, there was a time when the city was a hellish cacophony. Now, not so much, especially if you stick to the areas recommended in guidebooks.

But, keep in mind, even with a strong economy and tight pollution controls, it’s still not a relaxing place, it’s an exhausting place, but in a good way. Like New York. The reason I’m blabbing about this is I just read an article from SFGate.com today entitled “Smile: You’ve Got 10 Great Reasons to Visit Mexico City.”

The writer did an excellent job at nailing down the spirit of the city…here’s a few of the passages I especially endorse:

“The oldest part of Mexico City compresses 700 years of history, including Aztec ruins, Spanish colonial grandiosity, Art Nouveau showplaces and avant-garde experiments.”

Indeed, the centro should be a must-see for every tourist. Be sure to visit the Aztec Templo Mayor.

“Take a detour into leafy Colonia Condesa, a happening place with trendy bars and restaurants, and a mix of classic architecture and sleek lofts and apartment buildings….The centerpiece of Colonia Condesa is the oval-shaped Parque México. The one-time horse-racing track makes for an especially beguiling stroll in spring, when lavender jacaranda drift to the pathways.“

For sure, come to my neighborhood! And grab a fruit juice at Frutos Prohibidos on Calle Michoacan (I recommend the strawberry) and rest your feet in beautiful Parque Mexico.

“Geography, disparate civilizations and an international roster of conquerors and immigrants have produced an almost infinite variety of Mexican cuisines.”

Anyone who has read my blog before knows I get practically weepy and misty-eyed whenever I discuss the food here. Before long, I will start bursting into song.

“The village of Xochimilco, now a southern colonia, is a living museum of pre-Hispanic Mexico City, offering a unique opportunity to join Mexican families on outings to the last remains of ancient canals and chinampas (floating gardens) that predate even the Aztecs.“

We took my Minnesota in-laws to Xochimilco in February, and I can only imagine, for them, that it was the complete opposite of the St. Paul winter climate. They don’t believe in muted colors in Mexico, and Xochimilco is one of the most colorful places in the world, if not the most colorful.

What I wouldn’t recommend that was mentioned in the article: The Alameda Central. It’s gotten a bit down-around-its-heels-lately, and its utterly cramped and dirty on the weekends. As the author mentions, Bosque de Chapultepec (Mexico City’s Central Park) is a better bet, and you must — must — walk up to the castle for terrific panoramic views of the city.

And what the writer didn’t mention, but many tourists enjoy: the ancient, sprawling ruins of Teotihuacan.

Ever Tried Dragon Fruit or Tree Tomatoes?

Neither had I, until this weekend.

Our local mercado — Mercado Medellin — specializes in tropical and South American fruits.

So, whenever we go, I like to purchase a couple of previously unknown-to-me fruits, and I try to talk to the vendors about the fruits (as in, what to do with them, what they taste like, etc.)

And with that, I bring you this past weekend’s purchases: dragon fruit and tree tomatoes. Or, as we call them in Mexico: pitayas and tomates de arbol.

Pitayas aka "dragon fruit" are originally from Mexico but are now grown in Asia, too. Their outer skin is hot pink.

This is simply a gratuitous shot of my adorable dog admiring the pitaya.

This variety of pitaya has a white flesh with tiny edible seeds. Some varieties have a red flesh. It tastes vaguely like watermelon, but is softer and juicier. I loved it with some lime juice squeezed on top.

Tree tomatos, or tomates de arbol, hail from Colombia. They look, feel and taste somewhat like a tomato. And they also smell a lot like guavas.

I wasn't crazy about the flavor of tree tomatoes, but I do think their innards look cool, sort of like the human circulatory system or a lung.

Our Many Hours of Making Mexican Mole

STEP 1: Deciding

A mole vendor in the Xochimilco mercado. In the front row are the powdered moles; behind them, the wet moles that look like ice cream.

In the markets here, there’s usually a few stalls that sell different types of powdered mole. A few weeks ago, Brendan bought some powdered mole from the mercado near his office, to take back with us to the States and give as gifts to a couple of our friends. He kept some for us, and this weekend, we finally decided to cook with it.

A little background on mole, from my very limited knowledge: Mole is derived from the Aztec word for sauce. It’s usually made from a complex mixture of ingredients, and can be prepared many different ways (guacamole, for example, is one you definitely know). Brendan bought a fairly common variety — mole poblano, a dark-brown spicy mole with a strong chocolate flavor. Before we could make the mole, though, we needed answers:

1. How do you go from powdered mole to real mole? (Most recipes assume you’re making your mole from scratch, or have canned mole).
2. What do we put under the mole once we prepare it?

After about an hour of internet searching and much speculation, we decided to make some type of vegetarian enchiladas. I used to make green chile enchiladas back in college in New Mexico, and so I was familiar with the cooking techniques. And to make the mole, we decided we could probably boil some veggie broth, and add the mole powder until we got a mole-like consistency (like chocolate syrup), and pour that on top of the enchiladas.

STEP 2: Shopping

We headed to our local mercado — a damn good one known as the Mercado Medellin — to purchase:

• chayote, a local vegetable that’s pretty bland, so good for a possible enchilada stuffing
• ajonjoli (sesame seeds)
• the usual purchases of onions, cilantro, limes

Next, we bought freshly made corn tortillas from the tortilleria near the mercado.

Then we went to the big truck that parks in our neighborhood where vendors sell productos de Oaxaca, including fresh Oaxacan cheese (among other goodies). We bought a quarter-kilo of cheese, to put in and on top of the enchiladas.

STEP 3: Preparing

All things considered, our ineptitude with Mexican cooking didn’t really get in the way.

I pre-cooked the sliced chayote in the oven for a long time (I tried to roast them, realizing our roaster doesn’t seem to work). Then I stuffed the chayote, refried beans and cubed Oaxacan cheese into each enchilada. I rolled them up flauta-style, and put them in a big pan and sprinkled more cheese on top. Meanwhile, Brendan worked his magic on the mole, which filled the apartment with a spicy chocolate aroma (um, yum). I threw the enchiladas in the oven for about 20 minutes (at 7,500 feet elevation, cooking takes longer than normal). Then, when they were done, I poured the mole on top.

STEP 4: Celebratory Face Stuffing

Wow. These little guys came out gorgeous and tasty. The innards (chayote, cheese and beans) were mild enough to not compete with the highly flavorful mole.

Mole poblano enchiladas with chayote, Oaxacan cheese and beans.