Day of the Dead: It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year

Expect  a lot more photos from me in the following weeks, as this is my third time to celebrate Noche de Muertos (or, alternately known as Dia de Muertos, De de Los Muertos, Day of the Dead) and I LOVE IT.

Today I went to the Mercado Jamaica — Mexico City’s gargantuan flower market — to pick up some zempasúchitl (marigolds) and the brain coral-like flores de terciopelo (cockscombs?)  Total cost: 30 pesos, or about $2.20. Check out this great photo slideshow to get an idea of show sprawling this mercado is.

When I got home, I made 5 bouquets from the two big bundles of flowers, including the centerpiece to my ofrenda, or altar:

You know you live in Mexico when you have spare calaveritas (mini sugar skulls) in the pantry, and whip them out for the altar.

Each marigold bloom is huge. I bought the type with more shredded like petals, but they have many varieties for sale. This weekend the flowers will bedeck altars, the cemeteries, and the entrances to peoples' homes, a way to welcome and guide back their dead loved ones.

I had two quesadillas at the mercado after buying my flowers. One had huitlacoche (corn fungus -- it's delicious!) and the other, continuing with the flower theme, was stuffed with squash blossoms.

These exquisite flores de terciopelo look great juxtaposed next to orange. Fuchsia and orange: so Mexican.

Of course, Halloween is popular here, too. Costumes and themed pinatas were for sale, like this witch, who waited on a bench while her owner had lunch.

Sharing Mexico with Friends

It is SO fun having visitors, and showing them the sights. October is a busy month for us, right now our New York City amiga Chrissy is here. In a few moments, we’re taking a mini road trip to Malinalco.

Chrissy and me in the plaza of Coyoacan last night. It’s been beautifully restored.

Like Thunderstorms? Then You’ll Love Mexico City

This is when I first started to think "Hmm, maybe I'll get my camera."

And it grew.

And grew.

Then it started to get surreal, and I found myself staring at it, mesmerized.

So many shades of gray.

And blue.

It took over the entire sky.

This was at about 7 p.m., right before sunset.

A helicopter amid the storm (it's the tiny dot to the right of the tree and left of the building). What a view this pilot must have.

Tales from an International Jetsetter

Minutes before my afternoon flight from Houston to Mexico City on Sunday, I decided to buy a Jamba Juice smoothie, since I hadn’t eaten the entire day and am always leery of Continental’s “snack” offerings.

As I approach my seat — 17C — I realize I didn’t think this through very well. I’ve got two giant carry-ons full of books (I always bring back books to Mexico, and never check them to avoid overweight fees) and a paper cup full of smoothie. I have to set it down somewhere to get the carry-ons in the overhead compartments. Damn.

Without a lot of thought (“story of my life”), I set it down on the seat cushion of 16C, and prop it against the armrest, so it won’t tip over. Instead, it tips over. And spills all over 16C. The frozen purple blob oozes and starts dripping down to the floor.

I muttered — no, gasped — a few adult words and pressed the flight attendant call button as quickly as I could.

Thankfully, the attendant appeared quickly, made no attempt to humiliate me, and went off to find napkins.

“But we’re going to get a new seat,” she tells me as she walks off, as if I understand what that entails.

Moments later, the ticketholder for 16C arrives. My humiliation came in the form of jumping up and warning him “don’t sit there!!!!” I explained, sheepishly, that I spilled my smoothie. For some reason, had it been a Coke or a plate of nachos, I’d been less embarrassed. A smoothie? Even the word annoys me.

“Uh, OK….Someone left their passport, too,” he says.

And, of course, it’s mine, I dropped it in the confusion. “Oh, mine! I’m not having the best day!” I try to joke.

He doesn’t laugh. I know at this point he had to be thinking “oh no, next she’s going to start crying about her cat.”

The flight attendant re-appears with a fistful of napkins, and asks Mr. 16C to wait at the back of the plane while they wait for maintenance. I apologize profusely and explain I’ll take his seat if they’re not able to fix it. It’s my mistake, but he has to stand in the back, among the lavatories, while I’m buckled in and pulling out my iPod.

Thankfully, a large man in a Continental uniform eventually appears, hugging a seat cushion. The removal and installation takes only a few seconds. He’s gone, and Mr. 16C is allowed to come back and join his family members. I finally start to relax a little, but I spent a lot of time looking around to see if anyone was shaking their head in disapproval as I sucked down what was left of my smoothie. Of course, most people were completely unaware of what had happened, and the only thing they knew from the incident happened later when the pilot announced:

“Sorry, folks, we’re a little delayed, we’re just wrapping up a last-minute maintenance report.”

Sigh.

For the first time ever, the constant crying of an ear-infected toddler in the row across from us was actually soothing for me. Surely Mr. 16C found that more annoying than my smoothie incident?!

After a Busy Week, to Texas I Go

I’m spending this week in steamy, hot Corpus Christi, Texas, chillaxin’ with my folks and attending a wedding. This comes on the heels of a week-long visit from NYC BFF Concetta and her man H, both of whom showed tireless energy to see as much of Mexico City as possible. In a week’s time, they:

-ate tacos al pastor (moments after arriving from the airport!)

-toured San Angel’s Bazar Sabado conmigo, then later were happy to tag along to have Korean food and chelas with 10+ foreigners (and me), despite being on a Mexican vacation

-walked all over La Roma, then walked west on Reforma to the Anthropology Museum and then boarded the metro to the centro and ate cabrito — in one afternoon!

-as every good tourist should, visited the Zocalo, and later had Yucatecan tacos (so fracking good, people), panuchos and beers with me and B

-climbed the pyramids at Teotihuacan, then had more tacos

-took an overnight trip to the breathtaking mountain town of Taxco, stayed at romantic/quaint Mi Casita

-had a humongous Argentinian meal with us, including steaks, fries and two bottles of Casa Madero cab sav

-One day I got to hoard Concetta all to myself, and we spent the day in Coyoacan, visiting Frida Kahlo’s blue house, before some fierce shopping and eating chiles en nogada at El Morral. (THEY HAVE REALLY GOOD CHILES EN NOGADA, YA’LL!) We also squeezed in cafes from El Jarocho, and gabbed while sitting/people-watching on a bench in the plaza.

-We spent one evening at my favorite restaurant in Mexico City, La Embajada Jarocha (comida veracruzana), where we ate coconuts and plantains stuffed with seafood, and Connie and her man joined in w/ the crowd, and danced to tropical music provided by a string of rotating bands.

Now I’m in slow-paced Corpus Christi, enjoying American amenities like safe drinking water, Target and salad bars.

Life is good, people. I’m a lucky lady to have good friends, good times and a great life.

-

The Little Miracle on My Patio

On our Mexico City apartment patio, we have several geraniums, two weird succulent plants, and a very productive chili pepper plant.

Those are the survivors, anyway. We’ve managed to kill a few plants, too.

Amazingly, a week or so ago, I noticed a little green sprout in one of the cast-off pots that I had shoved into the corner and forgotten about. I had no idea what the little sprout was (it’s growing in a pot that used to contain basil), but surmised it was a weed that had shown up because the rainy season meant it was getting watered frequently.

But now, it doesn’t look so weed-like:

Anyone know what flower this is?

Adios, Rainy Season

I Finally Obtain Cheddar Cheese in Mexico City; Charlie Spazzes

A few weeks ago, I went to Costco with friend and fellow blogger Julie. I had heard the rumors that Costco sells certain food items largely unattainable in Mexico City, chief among them extra-sharp cheddar cheese. I have made it no secret that I get a little woozy in the presence of good cheddar, and since I am uber tired of Mexican cheeses (they are fairly bland), I could resist no longer. I bought a giant block of Vermont’s finest, AKA Cabot’s Vintage Choice white cheddar.

["Vintage Choice rests in our cellars until it reaches perfect maturity. It boasts a rich, full-bodied, extra-sharp flavor that is wonderfully delicious. Complex in taste and texture, opulent and full of nuances. Its powerful intensity lingers like a sweet memory." Editor's Note: Indeed.]

Everyday since then, I’ve sliced a little bit off and savored it. When done, I carefully place Saran wrap around the block and place it lovingly back in the fridge. “Tomorrow, we meet again,” I whisper to it. “Tenemos una cita, amorcito.“

Tonight, I decided to splurge and have a white wine (a Portugese vinho verde — another thing Julie introduced me, to, and tengo un mil gracias por eso)  and cheddar cheese dinner.

Normally, when Charlie is in the presence of anything that tastes even a smidge better than his normal kibble, he begins an elaborate begging dance to get a scrap. But if his humans ignore him, he will give up, eventually.

But not tonight. I had thoughtlessly left behind a tiny piece of cheddar and was settling into read a friend’s short story for my writing workshop. He kept bumping into me as I tried to read. WTF? Oh, the cheese, I realized.

He spent a very long time calculating the distance between the sofa and the tiny bit of cheese.

"I eat crappy kibble all day. Please, woman."

"SIGH. Just give me the fucking cheese already."

Finally, I relented and handed it to him.

He gobbled it up and then jumped off the couch and preceded to circle the coffee table.

"Just making sure it's all gone."

Later, I spotted him by the doorway, licking and sniffing his paws (he often holds treats with his paws before eating them).

Right now I think he’s retired to the bedroom, and will soon fall asleep, dreaming of cheddar.

Delish & Low-Cal: Joy’s Vegetarian Tortilla Soup

As fall arrives, it’s cold and rainy here in Mexico City (seriously, it’s 55 degrees and raining heavily right at this moment). Meaning, I want soup. Steamy, spicy soup.

But because I try to cook vegetarian at home, my options are limited. Mexico is a meat-lover’s paradise (and trust me, I’m not judging: I’ve partaken of the cooked animal flesh many ‘o times here). But one fail-safe at home dish is tortilla soup, using Mexican ingredients.

Truth be told: I’ve been making this recipe for years now, borrowing heavily from this Epicurious recipe that was printed in Bon Appetit in 1997 – wow! The way I prepare it is really a hybrid between tortilla soup and sopa de lima. And it’s my favorite of any I’ve tried…

Ingredients:

• glug of olive oil
• 1/2 cup chopped white onion
• 2 garlic cloves, minced (or more)
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste (I use ketchup)
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin (I use a lot more plus at least 2 tsp of chili powder)
• 4 cups canned vegetable broth, adding more water if needed
• 4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (again, I use liberally)

• bag of good tortilla chips (totopos en espanol), crush some to sprinkle on top of finished soup
• 2 cups chopped tomatoes (I use canned whole tomatoes, a pantry item that’s always usable)
• 1 can black beans, rinsed, drained
• at least 1 cup chopped zucchini — or more depending on how much you like this veggie. I chop it into fourths.
• At least one jalapeno pepper (with seeds — we like spice, take ‘em out if you don’t) or any other spicy chile
• Can throw in a cup or so of frozen or fresh corn kernels
• Can throw in a 1/2 cup or so of fresh chopped carrots
• Limes — lots of em. I like the small sweet kind
• Shredded cheddar cheese to sprinkle on top (if you’re a bad girl)
• salt and pepper, claro

Pour glug of olive oil onto large nonstick saucepan. Add onion, cover and cook over medium-low heat until almost tender, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, stir 1 minute. Stir in tomato paste or ketchup, cumin and chili powder. Add broth and 2 tablespoons cilantro; bring to boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until flavors blend, about 15 minutes. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover; chill. Bring to simmer before continuing.) Can add water if this is too thick for your taste.

Add tomatoes, beans, zucchini, extra veggies (if desired) and chile pepper to soup. Cover; simmer until zucchini is tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. If broth is too laden with veggies, add little bits of water until you reach desired soup consistency. Add more spices if you wish to avoid diluted taste.

Squeeze in juice of 1 lime. Add desired amount of salt and pepper.

Ladle soup into bowls. Sprinkle with remaining extra cilantro. Squeeze a bit more lime (depending on your lime preference — I like a lot). And you may want to shred a little Manchego cheese on top.

Tastes great as leftovers, btw. (I don’t know the exact nutrition breakdown, pero,  black beans have fiber, limes have vitamin c, carrots have vitamin A and fiber, tomatoes have vitamin C and lycopene, garlic is always good for you….and this has just a teensy bit of olive oil. So, it’s low-fat, low-cal, vegetarian and nutrient-dense. AND TASTY.)

A Trip Down Insurgentes (‘World’s Longest Avenue’) in Mexico City

To get to UNAM, the gigantic university in the southern part of our city, we drove down Insurgentes (en-sir-hen-tess), which is according to Wikipedia, “the longest avenue in Mexico City and said to be the longest in the world.” It’s an avenue we’re very familiar with, because it’s one of the few straightforward ways to get out of the city — it links up to the toll road to Cuernavaca (and eventually, Acapulco). Meaning, even panicked gueros can navigate it.

Nicely, it’s not just for car traffic, though; Brendan commutes to work via the Insurgentes Metrobus. The bus line is new, created a few years ago by devoting the inner lanes only to bus traffic. There are stations about every two blocks, making it super-easy to navigate Insurgentes on foot, too. And when we need to visit Wal-Mart (more often than we like), we head north on Insurgentes a few stops.

Because I was riding in the back-seat of an open-air car, I decided to take a few photos on Sunday:

The World Trade Center is a behemoth building, home to many offices and major conventions. There's a restaurant on top that we need to visit.

A few weeks ago we ate here, Restaurante Los Guajolotes ("turkeys" in Nahuatl), where they roast entire turkeys. I had a delish Thanksgiving-like platter of white turkey breast, gravy and mashed potatoes. I think the more notable thing, though, is their logo: A plucked turkey in a waiter's suit, jauntily carrying a cooked turkey on a tray.

Murals are one of the more delightful sights around the city, including along Insurgentes. This one was, I think, flanks a shopping mall. These are images of ancient deities of the Aztecs.

The same mural (the image above is over on the right, sort of.)

The World Trade Center may be the biggest, but there are lots of other skyscrapers along the way.

And, as with everywhere in Mexico, there are vendors and things for sale the entire way. Desperate for a bottle of water, or maybe a pinwheel (or four)? No hay problema!

Insurgentes also bisects UNAM. The Olympic Stadium is on your right as you drive south. Hard to miss, too.

Photos: We Visit Latin America’s Largest University, UNAM

The soccer stadium (go Pumas!) is also the '68 Olympic stadium.

Jesica, one of my good friends here in Mexico City, happens to be a tour guide with a degree in art history. Meaning, when you hang out with her, you not only have fun, you get smarter. A few days ago, I  mentioned that we hadn’t yet visited UNAM, Mexico City’s enormous university (the biggest in Latin America, and perhaps the world). The campus is in the south of the city, and itself is the size of a small city. So, she said, vaminos. And we did so today, turning it into a little mini-road trip in her convertible Tracker.

We attended the Orquestra Sinfonica de Mineria (the symphony — and I loved it. Does this mean I’m getting old?) at Sala Nezahualcóyotl, had lunch at the famed Azul y Oro (named after the colors of UNAM, blue and gold), then walked around a sculpture garden that contained — to my glee — lots of nature, and well, sculptures by Sebastian.

Jesica and Brendan hike down to the big blue M.

I was actually entertained during the entire symphony. It's really quite amazing.

It was one of those typically perfect days. 365 days a year, it rocks.

A bee doing what she does best.

"I'm a fat lizard sunbathing."

A poblano pepper stuffed with spicy pork and fruit, covered in a walnut cream sauce, and doused with pomegranate seeds. It's a rough life.

A Mondrian-style home sits behind a pesero.

What Is the World Coming to? (or Joy Discovers Justin Bieber)

I flipped on MTV just now to to try and keep up with what the kids are listening to these days.

Apparently, this is either a pre-pubescent teen boy or a twee lesbian rapper. Either way, it’s creepy and I feel officially old and completely mystified by the younger generation.

The Circle Is Complete

First, me on ABC NEWS a few years ago:

This appeared on a rarely watched digital channel known as ABC NEWS NOW.

Then, Monday, Bwendy made it on to national news TV, as well:

Yes, this is a photo of my TV.

I guess the circle really won’t be complete until Charlie gets his air time, too. (Notice that you can discern our dominant hands by the location of our earpieces. Mine on my left ear, Brendan’s on his right. Yeah, that’s not a long corkscrew pasta dangling from my hair, silly.)

I think we both decided the hardest part is that you’re talking directly to a camera, and therefore you have no idea when you are being telecast, or when they’re cutting away to the anchor or b-roll footage as you drone on. So you can’t ever roll your eyes or make the “no shit, Sherlock” face that I’m famously known for.

(But, I would argue, cameras are smarter than most TV anchors, so I prefer talking to the camera.)

A Vacation of My Favorite Things: Friends, Family, Food, Lakes, Laughs and Dora Nearly Drowning

We just got back from a week-long trip to Massachusetts. In true Joy/Brendan style, we crammed in as much visiting with friends and family as we could muster, and so this week, we’re barely alive. For now, though, a few fantastic highlights:

- Catching up with a few of our nearest-and-dearest NYC amigos — Dora & Gene, Adam & John, and Connie — at our lakeside cabin rental in The Berkshires of Western Massachusetts.

Lake Ashmere, Berkshires, Massachusetts

Our pretty little cabin, plus a few enhancers we brought.

Everyone expected me to fall off the float, I did not!

- Dining at the tucked-away Dreamaway Lodge, a former brothel.

Dora, John and Adam in front of the lodge. The food: scrumptious!

- Visiting Lake Onota, and renting a pontoon boat, just like we did back in ‘07 on Lake George. Fabulous way to spend an afternoon, and the water temperature was magical — I could have swam for hours in the slightly chilly waters. Oh wait, I did swim for hours (and I love how New England sun doesn’t burn me! I can apply sunscreen just once and then forget all about it).

- Laughing so hard it hurt when Dora fell out of an inflated float, letting out a shriek, but refusing to let go of her beer. Classic Dora: Nearly drowning, laughing, while doggy paddling one handed.

- Tieing for first with Adam for in our First-Ever Cannonball Contest. I fully expect a rematch next summer. We’ll take photos next time for a photo finish.

Brendan has now driven pontoon boats in Wisconsin, New York and Massachusetts.

Post-swimming bliss. I'm truly happiest while floating/swimming.

It rained like crazy that day, but we had enough sun to enjoy a few hours on the boat.

- Being towed around the lake on a float by Adam and John in their kayaks, a la Cleopatra down the Nile. A man passing by in a boat told me “You got the life, don’t you?”

- Watching Oscar and a duck endlessly flirt.

A dog and a duck: A love story.

- Gorging self on fantastic Italian food at Salvatore’s in Lawrence, Mass.  The meat lasagna. The pizza margarita. The calamari. The fresh Italian bread and herbed olive oil. The Peroni beer.  Lordy oh lordy, I miss good Italian food.

- Watching Brendan’s cousin and her hubby celebrate their vows, and meeting lots of Brendan’s family that after 8 years I still hadn’t met!

The newlyweds.

– Stumbling upon good food before our return flight home in the Ironbound District of Newark, known for its Portuguese and now Brazilian immigrants. Using the Blackberry, we looked up Portugese restaurants, found one called Nossa Casa, and decided to have lunch there (gracias a el GPS).

When we walked in, it soon became apparent that the restaurant had been expropriated by the local Latin American community, evidence by the Mexican Norteno songs blasting from the juke box and a menu that was in Spanish, not Portuguese. (Though our waitress was Brazilian and happy to speak to us in either Portuguese or Spanish.) In any case, the food was wonderful and Brendan was served a 1/2 order of paella so huge it easily could have fed an apartment full of day laborers.

A Sad Turn of Events in Michoacan, AKA: How to Survive a Gunfight

As if Michoacan is not beautiful enough, its forests also host one of the world's greatest migrations, the wintering monarchs.

Last month we traveled throughout the exquisitely handsome Mexican state of Michoacan, which I chronicled in Way Off the Beaten Path: The Coast of Michoacan, Mexico and Come With Me to Patzcuaro, Michoacan.

So it was with a sad heart that I read about a drug cartel uprising in the state this past weekend, in which at least a dozen police officers were murdered. The cartels targeted police stations across the state, as detailed in this post from The Zapata Tales, written by a blogger who lives in Patzcuaro:

“It looked like Baghdad.  There were bullet holes in the police station, the windows, the walls. Across the street, sitting next to a gas pump where some poor sap was likely getting a fillup, sat a silver Meriva like the one we once owned. Full of bullet holes too, shredded metal.”

The attacks were in retaliation for the police arresting a top cartel leader.

And, many of the attacks were on the very streets Brendan, Charlie and I rode on, which, when we visited, were flanked by scenery that was about as close to paradise as I’ve ever seen (Michoacan is frequently regaled as Mexico’s most beautiful state, and I not only agree with that assessment but would argue it’s one of the most beautiful places in the world). My biggest fear at the time was falling mangos or a flat tire (or getting stuck in the sand at the beach). My home is now full of art from Michoacan, some of the most amazing I’ve seen in my travels across 22 states in this country. We never once felt unsafe, although cartels have been operating in this state for some time.

The cartels are ruthless in their efforts to supply drug-hungry Americans, but most of the violence in recent years has been much  closer geographically to my friends and family in Texas than to me here in Mexico City.

This time, though, the recent violence was abnormal enough that I received this email this afternoon, from the U.S. Embassy Warden (an email alert service I signed up for after first moving here). I’m at no immediate risk, so the warning doesn’t frighten me, it saddens me. Tell me: How long will Mexico continue to suffer from this violence? What will it take to stop drug-related violence? How many people have to die? Is it really that important to keep drugs illegal?

The U.S. Embassy advises U.S. citizens residing or traveling in the state of Michoacan, Mexico, to be aware of recent violent attacks targeting state and federal police officials, and wishes to remind U.S. citizens of the Travel Alert for Mexico dated February 20, 2009.  Several Mexican police officials have been killed at various locations throughout the state.  The U.S. Embassy is not aware of any attempts to target U.S. citizens with this violence; however, citizens are advised to maintain awareness of their surroundings when travelling throughout the state and to avoid large crowds and demonstrations.

Actions to Take if Caught in the Middle of a Gunfight/Gunfire

The U.S. Embassy takes this opportunity to remind U.S. citizens of guidance sent on October 22, 2008, recommending the following courses of action to take if you find yourself in a situation in or near gunfire:

-       Always be aware of your surroundings.
-     Whenever possible, carry a cell-phone with up to date contact information for emergencies.
-    When gunfire/explosions are heard, immediately move to a safe area with good cover.  For example, look for something substantial to hide behind, seek cover in a room made of solid construction (e.g. concrete, steel, etc.), stay away from doors and windows, and do not venture out to try and observe the conflict.
-      Immediately convey the sense of danger/threat to those around you.
-     Do not attempt to move to a vehicle if you are in a safe area. Remain there until local security tells you that it is safe to move.
-      Always carry information about your personal medical needs.