Day of the Dead: It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year

Expect  a lot more photos from me in the following weeks, as this is my third time to celebrate Noche de Muertos (or, alternately known as Dia de Muertos, De de Los Muertos, Day of the Dead) and I LOVE IT.

Today I went to the Mercado Jamaica — Mexico City’s gargantuan flower market — to pick up some zempasúchitl (marigolds) and the brain coral-like flores de terciopelo (cockscombs?)  Total cost: 30 pesos, or about $2.20. Check out this great photo slideshow to get an idea of show sprawling this mercado is.

When I got home, I made 5 bouquets from the two big bundles of flowers, including the centerpiece to my ofrenda, or altar:

You know you live in Mexico when you have spare calaveritas (mini sugar skulls) in the pantry, and whip them out for the altar.

Each marigold bloom is huge. I bought the type with more shredded like petals, but they have many varieties for sale. This weekend the flowers will bedeck altars, the cemeteries, and the entrances to peoples' homes, a way to welcome and guide back their dead loved ones.

I had two quesadillas at the mercado after buying my flowers. One had huitlacoche (corn fungus -- it's delicious!) and the other, continuing with the flower theme, was stuffed with squash blossoms.

These exquisite flores de terciopelo look great juxtaposed next to orange. Fuchsia and orange: so Mexican.

Of course, Halloween is popular here, too. Costumes and themed pinatas were for sale, like this witch, who waited on a bench while her owner had lunch.

It’s a Rough Life, Visiting Gorgeous Spas in Mexico

Once, while on vacation a few years ago, Brendan looked over at me swinging in a hammock and sipping a beer, and said “you’re so hedonistic when you’re on vacation.”

At the time, I really wasn’t participating in anything all that indulgent, but he was right: I’ll go the extra mile if it involves pleasure and beauty.

Hence, I like getting massages in pretty places. And Mexico is basically perfect for that, no?

The massage last year in Puerto Vallarta during a steamy rainstorm wasn’t so bad, and I enjoyed the Thai Massage at Mision del Sol in Cuernavaca, and I’ll never forget the avocado hair treatment/neck massage at Cabanas Copal…but none of those (nor the others) so far, have topped Ollinyotl Spa in Malinalco, Mexico.

Let’s let the photos speak for themselves:

Circles are the main architecture element at the spa. (You can click all of these for larger versions.)

The entrance to the labyrinth.

Chrissy, who visited us this past week from New York City, went with me to Ollinyotl. We got one-hour Swedish massages for 500 pesos each ($38). Then we sat under the hot Mexican sun in the labyrinth, soaking up the amazing good vibes that emanate from the place. This is definitely a photo to click on to view the large version!

New age-y drum music is piped in, and when you lie on the ground in the labryinth, the sky takes on a fish-bowl perspective. It's transcendent, as silly as it sounds.

They have yoga classes here - right here in the middle - and I hope to take one when we return to Malinalco for Day of the Dead. In the center, it echoes. How great is that for chatting om namah shivaya?

Yours truly in heaven.

Get here before its discovered. We were the only patrons at the spa on a Saturday afternoon. Otherwise, no, I don't normally take so many photos.

The Little Miracle on My Patio

On our Mexico City apartment patio, we have several geraniums, two weird succulent plants, and a very productive chili pepper plant.

Those are the survivors, anyway. We’ve managed to kill a few plants, too.

Amazingly, a week or so ago, I noticed a little green sprout in one of the cast-off pots that I had shoved into the corner and forgotten about. I had no idea what the little sprout was (it’s growing in a pot that used to contain basil), but surmised it was a weed that had shown up because the rainy season meant it was getting watered frequently.

But now, it doesn’t look so weed-like:

Anyone know what flower this is?

Adios, Rainy Season

I Finally Obtain Cheddar Cheese in Mexico City; Charlie Spazzes

A few weeks ago, I went to Costco with friend and fellow blogger Julie. I had heard the rumors that Costco sells certain food items largely unattainable in Mexico City, chief among them extra-sharp cheddar cheese. I have made it no secret that I get a little woozy in the presence of good cheddar, and since I am uber tired of Mexican cheeses (they are fairly bland), I could resist no longer. I bought a giant block of Vermont’s finest, AKA Cabot’s Vintage Choice white cheddar.

["Vintage Choice rests in our cellars until it reaches perfect maturity. It boasts a rich, full-bodied, extra-sharp flavor that is wonderfully delicious. Complex in taste and texture, opulent and full of nuances. Its powerful intensity lingers like a sweet memory." Editor's Note: Indeed.]

Everyday since then, I’ve sliced a little bit off and savored it. When done, I carefully place Saran wrap around the block and place it lovingly back in the fridge. “Tomorrow, we meet again,” I whisper to it. “Tenemos una cita, amorcito.“

Tonight, I decided to splurge and have a white wine (a Portugese vinho verde — another thing Julie introduced me, to, and tengo un mil gracias por eso)  and cheddar cheese dinner.

Normally, when Charlie is in the presence of anything that tastes even a smidge better than his normal kibble, he begins an elaborate begging dance to get a scrap. But if his humans ignore him, he will give up, eventually.

But not tonight. I had thoughtlessly left behind a tiny piece of cheddar and was settling into read a friend’s short story for my writing workshop. He kept bumping into me as I tried to read. WTF? Oh, the cheese, I realized.

He spent a very long time calculating the distance between the sofa and the tiny bit of cheese.

"I eat crappy kibble all day. Please, woman."

"SIGH. Just give me the fucking cheese already."

Finally, I relented and handed it to him.

He gobbled it up and then jumped off the couch and preceded to circle the coffee table.

"Just making sure it's all gone."

Later, I spotted him by the doorway, licking and sniffing his paws (he often holds treats with his paws before eating them).

Right now I think he’s retired to the bedroom, and will soon fall asleep, dreaming of cheddar.

My Patriotic Fruit Salad (Viva Mexico!)

Manana es Dia de Independencia, y esta noche vamos a celebrar con el grito “Viva Mexico! Viva!”

The national dish for Mexico this time of year is the exceptionally beautiful chiles en nogada, which happens to be red, white and green, como la bandera de Mexico.

But so is this, and whereas chiles en nogada has upwards of 19 ingredients (!!), this has just two:

The Ironic Corn Stalk in Parque Mexico

I am fortunate enough to live adjacent to Parque Mexico, one of the prettiest parks in Mexico City. I’ve sung its praises many times here, from the big fat banana flowers to the shabby beauty of the fountains to the cute signs posted on tree trunks.

The park is maintained by a giant fleet of workers who sweep the sidewalks and keep the plants/trees healthy. On the weekends, it’s insanely crowded with families and dog owners.

A few months ago, though, I spotted a strange sight: A gangly little stalk of corn. I thought that it was funny — was it a silly joke, to see if it would survive? Or something more meaningful, a historical statement on what was likely growing in the park’s area 300 years ago? Or a political statement that anyone who can live near the park can afford corn during a time of severe (and panic-inducing) drought when so many can’t?

I thought someone would uproot the corn stalk by now, or that it would wither away. But no, it’s gotten huge — all by its lonesome — and is now sprouting a little ear of corn.

I’d love to know who planted it, and why:

Delish & Low-Cal: Joy’s Vegetarian Tortilla Soup

As fall arrives, it’s cold and rainy here in Mexico City (seriously, it’s 55 degrees and raining heavily right at this moment). Meaning, I want soup. Steamy, spicy soup.

But because I try to cook vegetarian at home, my options are limited. Mexico is a meat-lover’s paradise (and trust me, I’m not judging: I’ve partaken of the cooked animal flesh many ‘o times here). But one fail-safe at home dish is tortilla soup, using Mexican ingredients.

Truth be told: I’ve been making this recipe for years now, borrowing heavily from this Epicurious recipe that was printed in Bon Appetit in 1997 – wow! The way I prepare it is really a hybrid between tortilla soup and sopa de lima. And it’s my favorite of any I’ve tried…

Ingredients:

• glug of olive oil
• 1/2 cup chopped white onion
• 2 garlic cloves, minced (or more)
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste (I use ketchup)
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin (I use a lot more plus at least 2 tsp of chili powder)
• 4 cups canned vegetable broth, adding more water if needed
• 4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (again, I use liberally)

• bag of good tortilla chips (totopos en espanol), crush some to sprinkle on top of finished soup
• 2 cups chopped tomatoes (I use canned whole tomatoes, a pantry item that’s always usable)
• 1 can black beans, rinsed, drained
• at least 1 cup chopped zucchini — or more depending on how much you like this veggie. I chop it into fourths.
• At least one jalapeno pepper (with seeds — we like spice, take ‘em out if you don’t) or any other spicy chile
• Can throw in a cup or so of frozen or fresh corn kernels
• Can throw in a 1/2 cup or so of fresh chopped carrots
• Limes — lots of em. I like the small sweet kind
• Shredded cheddar cheese to sprinkle on top (if you’re a bad girl)
• salt and pepper, claro

Pour glug of olive oil onto large nonstick saucepan. Add onion, cover and cook over medium-low heat until almost tender, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, stir 1 minute. Stir in tomato paste or ketchup, cumin and chili powder. Add broth and 2 tablespoons cilantro; bring to boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until flavors blend, about 15 minutes. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover; chill. Bring to simmer before continuing.) Can add water if this is too thick for your taste.

Add tomatoes, beans, zucchini, extra veggies (if desired) and chile pepper to soup. Cover; simmer until zucchini is tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. If broth is too laden with veggies, add little bits of water until you reach desired soup consistency. Add more spices if you wish to avoid diluted taste.

Squeeze in juice of 1 lime. Add desired amount of salt and pepper.

Ladle soup into bowls. Sprinkle with remaining extra cilantro. Squeeze a bit more lime (depending on your lime preference — I like a lot). And you may want to shred a little Manchego cheese on top.

Tastes great as leftovers, btw. (I don’t know the exact nutrition breakdown, pero,  black beans have fiber, limes have vitamin c, carrots have vitamin A and fiber, tomatoes have vitamin C and lycopene, garlic is always good for you….and this has just a teensy bit of olive oil. So, it’s low-fat, low-cal, vegetarian and nutrient-dense. AND TASTY.)

A Trip Down Insurgentes (‘World’s Longest Avenue’) in Mexico City

To get to UNAM, the gigantic university in the southern part of our city, we drove down Insurgentes (en-sir-hen-tess), which is according to Wikipedia, “the longest avenue in Mexico City and said to be the longest in the world.” It’s an avenue we’re very familiar with, because it’s one of the few straightforward ways to get out of the city — it links up to the toll road to Cuernavaca (and eventually, Acapulco). Meaning, even panicked gueros can navigate it.

Nicely, it’s not just for car traffic, though; Brendan commutes to work via the Insurgentes Metrobus. The bus line is new, created a few years ago by devoting the inner lanes only to bus traffic. There are stations about every two blocks, making it super-easy to navigate Insurgentes on foot, too. And when we need to visit Wal-Mart (more often than we like), we head north on Insurgentes a few stops.

Because I was riding in the back-seat of an open-air car, I decided to take a few photos on Sunday:

The World Trade Center is a behemoth building, home to many offices and major conventions. There's a restaurant on top that we need to visit.

A few weeks ago we ate here, Restaurante Los Guajolotes ("turkeys" in Nahuatl), where they roast entire turkeys. I had a delish Thanksgiving-like platter of white turkey breast, gravy and mashed potatoes. I think the more notable thing, though, is their logo: A plucked turkey in a waiter's suit, jauntily carrying a cooked turkey on a tray.

Murals are one of the more delightful sights around the city, including along Insurgentes. This one was, I think, flanks a shopping mall. These are images of ancient deities of the Aztecs.

The same mural (the image above is over on the right, sort of.)

The World Trade Center may be the biggest, but there are lots of other skyscrapers along the way.

And, as with everywhere in Mexico, there are vendors and things for sale the entire way. Desperate for a bottle of water, or maybe a pinwheel (or four)? No hay problema!

Insurgentes also bisects UNAM. The Olympic Stadium is on your right as you drive south. Hard to miss, too.

Photos: We Visit Latin America’s Largest University, UNAM

The soccer stadium (go Pumas!) is also the '68 Olympic stadium.

Jesica, one of my good friends here in Mexico City, happens to be a tour guide with a degree in art history. Meaning, when you hang out with her, you not only have fun, you get smarter. A few days ago, I  mentioned that we hadn’t yet visited UNAM, Mexico City’s enormous university (the biggest in Latin America, and perhaps the world). The campus is in the south of the city, and itself is the size of a small city. So, she said, vaminos. And we did so today, turning it into a little mini-road trip in her convertible Tracker.

We attended the Orquestra Sinfonica de Mineria (the symphony — and I loved it. Does this mean I’m getting old?) at Sala Nezahualcóyotl, had lunch at the famed Azul y Oro (named after the colors of UNAM, blue and gold), then walked around a sculpture garden that contained — to my glee — lots of nature, and well, sculptures by Sebastian.

Jesica and Brendan hike down to the big blue M.

I was actually entertained during the entire symphony. It's really quite amazing.

It was one of those typically perfect days. 365 days a year, it rocks.

A bee doing what she does best.

"I'm a fat lizard sunbathing."

A poblano pepper stuffed with spicy pork and fruit, covered in a walnut cream sauce, and doused with pomegranate seeds. It's a rough life.

A Mondrian-style home sits behind a pesero.

A Vacation of My Favorite Things: Friends, Family, Food, Lakes, Laughs and Dora Nearly Drowning

We just got back from a week-long trip to Massachusetts. In true Joy/Brendan style, we crammed in as much visiting with friends and family as we could muster, and so this week, we’re barely alive. For now, though, a few fantastic highlights:

- Catching up with a few of our nearest-and-dearest NYC amigos — Dora & Gene, Adam & John, and Connie — at our lakeside cabin rental in The Berkshires of Western Massachusetts.

Lake Ashmere, Berkshires, Massachusetts

Our pretty little cabin, plus a few enhancers we brought.

Everyone expected me to fall off the float, I did not!

- Dining at the tucked-away Dreamaway Lodge, a former brothel.

Dora, John and Adam in front of the lodge. The food: scrumptious!

- Visiting Lake Onota, and renting a pontoon boat, just like we did back in ‘07 on Lake George. Fabulous way to spend an afternoon, and the water temperature was magical — I could have swam for hours in the slightly chilly waters. Oh wait, I did swim for hours (and I love how New England sun doesn’t burn me! I can apply sunscreen just once and then forget all about it).

- Laughing so hard it hurt when Dora fell out of an inflated float, letting out a shriek, but refusing to let go of her beer. Classic Dora: Nearly drowning, laughing, while doggy paddling one handed.

- Tieing for first with Adam for in our First-Ever Cannonball Contest. I fully expect a rematch next summer. We’ll take photos next time for a photo finish.

Brendan has now driven pontoon boats in Wisconsin, New York and Massachusetts.

Post-swimming bliss. I'm truly happiest while floating/swimming.

It rained like crazy that day, but we had enough sun to enjoy a few hours on the boat.

- Being towed around the lake on a float by Adam and John in their kayaks, a la Cleopatra down the Nile. A man passing by in a boat told me “You got the life, don’t you?”

- Watching Oscar and a duck endlessly flirt.

A dog and a duck: A love story.

- Gorging self on fantastic Italian food at Salvatore’s in Lawrence, Mass.  The meat lasagna. The pizza margarita. The calamari. The fresh Italian bread and herbed olive oil. The Peroni beer.  Lordy oh lordy, I miss good Italian food.

- Watching Brendan’s cousin and her hubby celebrate their vows, and meeting lots of Brendan’s family that after 8 years I still hadn’t met!

The newlyweds.

– Stumbling upon good food before our return flight home in the Ironbound District of Newark, known for its Portuguese and now Brazilian immigrants. Using the Blackberry, we looked up Portugese restaurants, found one called Nossa Casa, and decided to have lunch there (gracias a el GPS).

When we walked in, it soon became apparent that the restaurant had been expropriated by the local Latin American community, evidence by the Mexican Norteno songs blasting from the juke box and a menu that was in Spanish, not Portuguese. (Though our waitress was Brazilian and happy to speak to us in either Portuguese or Spanish.) In any case, the food was wonderful and Brendan was served a 1/2 order of paella so huge it easily could have fed an apartment full of day laborers.

Mexico City’s Rainy Season Is My Optimal Living State

There is a reason millions and millions of people live in Mexico City, it’s very hospitable to human life. Everyday is basically perfect — I can’t remember a single day in the last two years where the weather was truly bad. It just varies a teensy bit in temperature, humidity, wind and sun levels throughout the year, thanks to its high elevation in the tropics (it’s the best of both worlds).

Right now is the rainy season, which is my favorite. The humidity is a bit higher than normal, making it easier on the skin and the lungs. The temperature never gets higher than 75, nor lower than 55. The sun shines all day, while clouds slowly build in the late afternoon; it sometimes rains at night. The air is clean, crisp and comforting. You can wear a sweater or a tank top and be comfortable either way. Meaning, it’s an absolute paradise (while lowland Mexico is a steam room this time of year).

Plus, stuff blooms. Like crazy.

The center of a very very large bloom, spotted in the park today.

Not as close up. Any guesses?

It's the giant bloom on a 20-foot banana tree!

That’s Why I Was Freezing Last Night

I woke up at one point last night, thinking “hmm, it’s a bit chilly, even though I’m under the covers.”

I should have known someone had stolen the top blanket.

Comfy, Charlie?

When I asked him about this act of theft, this was his only reply.

Beach After Beach After Beach…and Still Going

In one of my favorite books, “In Search of Captain Zero,” author Allan Weisbecker explains how, for some people, there is nothing quite like being in the exact inexact spot (thanks to tides) where land meets sea. There’s the land, and there’s the sea, but where the two meet…well…what else is more haunting?

“Yeah,” I remember thinking as I read the passage. “Right on, man.”

If not already obvious, it’s a book that appeals to surfers, those who appreciate the surfer lifestyle (<– me), oceanographers/marine biologists or wannabes (yep, me)…and those who grew up on the beach, moved away from the beach, but try to get back often (<– si, si, yo)..

I’ve got lots purty beach photos — hundreds? — from my travels. And I’ve never met a beach I didn’t like, but I’ve grown to love the Pacific Coast the best. It’s the one I now dream about at night, in other words.

Let’s work our way up from the Southern coast of Mexico, all the way up to California, shall we?

Bahia de la Luna, Oaxaca

Mazunte, Oaxaca

Acapulco vista by day (photo by Betty)

Acapulco, later (photo by Dora).

Somewhere in Michoacan

Manzanillo, Colima (and a closed beach umbrella)

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

La Jolla, California, and its harbor seals (also beach lovers)

The long staircase to the lighthouse, Point Reyes, Calif.

Your host, happy to be here, roots and all, Point Reyes seashore

Just Call Me a Copper Snob

Before I visited the Mexican town of Santa Clara del Cobre in Michoacan a few weeks ago, I knew nada about copper (aka cobre en espanol). We didn’t own any copper – except for the cable that hooks the washer/dryer up to the gas lines.

Then, we visited. And went a little hog-wild, buying plates, dishware, jewelry (not enough – only two bracelets) and a serving bowl.

Copper cookware is supposed to be the chef's ultimate, because of how it conducts heat.

Copper comes in different colors, depending on the chemicals used in the finishing process. This serving bowl looks like wood.

These plates are ubiquitous in Patzcuaro restaurants; they sort of mimic placemats....

...when used like this. I didn't realize my serving bowl (above two photos) would match so well with the dishware, a gift from my mother-in-law.

This $2 bracelet really jazzes up an outfit.

This spree was helped by the fact that we eloped, and never got (nor wanted) any of the fancy wedding gifts most couples get. While in Mexico, we’ve managed to upgrade our home decor substantially from rickety Ikea furniture to, in some cases, original creations (or at least things you can’t find in the U.S.).

When I first moved here, I went a little crazy buying cute knickknacks you can find at most art-themed mercados. I was taken in by the bright colors of Mexico. With time, and lots of shopping experience, though, I’ve come to love the more muted art here (I think I need to do a separate blog post on those purchases), mostly made of dark wood. The copper matches perfectly.

So, we bought a lot, but not the pot.

In one of the stores we visited, Brendan and I both spotted a large copper pot from across the room; it seemed like a little beam of light was illuminating only it. We clustered around it, and spent several long minutes trying to decide if the price was worth it. After all, it was bedecked with a ribbon, indicating it had won an award in last year’s concurso, a copper artisans competition. (The category, we later found out, was for artists 15 and younger. Yes, a young joven designed the pot!)

Ultimately, we decided, no – we were just beginning our vacation across Michoacan, and the pot would seriously hinder the space in our rental car.

Then, we came home. And thought/chatted about the pot so much we went back to Santa Clara last weekend and bought it. It’s now sitting next to my desk, as we decide what to do with it (that’s the hard part).

I think it’s also time to name it, maybe Clara, para Sta. Clara.

Clara without sunshine shining down on her.

Clara in the sunshine, looking less moody.

[Friends Lesley/Crayton came with us the second time, and ended up buying a large, original artwork, too -- of a more modern sort ]